Elements of Women's Costume from Excavations in St. Petersburg

Authors

  • Anastasia D. Muratbakieva Лаборатория археологии, исторической социологии и культурного наследия им. Г. С. Лебедева (СПбГУ) (г. Санкт-Петербург, Россия)

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.24852/2587-6112.2024.1.116.126

Keywords:

archaeology of St. Petersburg, women's costume, leather shoes, urban archaeology, Naugolnye Chambers, glass beads, jewelry manufacturing

Abstract

The subject of women's costume has been of interest to historians, archaeologists and art historians for a long time. The costume of the nobility has been well studied thanks to museum materials, but the costume of the urban population has not been studied enough. The article deals with costume elements found during urban excavations in St. Petersburg in the “wet” layer, where organic objects are well preserved: leather shoes, fragments of fabric, bone combs. Finds from excavations on the spit of Vasilyevsky Island (excavation director A.D. Grach), the Naugolnye Chambers of the Menshikov Palace, Koltovskaya Sloboda, Summer Garden, Blagoveshchenskoye Cemetery on Vasilievsky Island, Tulskaya Street and Bolshaya Posadskaya Street were involved. The objects found analogies illustrating the process of "lowering" of fashion trends from high strata of the population to lower strata.

References

Aleshina, T. S. 2007. In Skripkina, L. I. (ed.). XIX vek v istorii Rossii: sovremennye kontseptsii istorii Rossii XIX veka i ikh muzeynaya interpretatsiya (XIX century in the history of Russia: modern concepts of the history of Russia of the XIX century and their museum interpretation). Series: Trudy Gosudarstvennogo istoricheskogo muzeia (Proceedings of the State Historical Museum) 163. Moscow: State Historical Museum, 93–173 (in Russian).

Bryukhanova, E. V. 2018. In Mel’nik, A. G., Sazonov, S. V. (eds.). Istoriya i kul'tura Rostovskoy zemli (History and culture of the Rostov region). Rostov: Rostov Kremlin, 251–260 (in Russian).

Veksler, A. G., Likhter, Yu. A. 2008. In Engovatova, A. V. (ed.). Arkheologiia Podmoskov’ia: Materialy nauchnogo seminara (Archaeology of the Moscow Region: Materials of the Seminar) 4. Moscow: Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 62–69 (in Russian).

Veksler, A. G., Likhter, Yu. A., Osipov, D. O. 2000. In Yanin, V. L. (ed.). Arkheologicheskie pamiatniki Moskvy i Podmoskov’ia (Archaeological Sites in Moscow and Moscow Region). Series: Trudy muzeia istorii g. Moskvy (Proceedings of the Museum of History of the Moscow City) issue 10, part 3. Moscow: Museum of History of the Moscow City, 182–188 (in Russian).

Grach, A. D. 1957. Arkheologicheskie raskopki v Leningrade: k kharakteristike kul'tury i byta naseleniya Peterburga XVIII v. (Archaeological excavations in Leningrad: to the characterization of culture and life of the St. Petersburg population in the XVIII century). Moscow: Academy of Sciences of the USSR (in Russian).

Zibin, Yu. P. 1978. Istoriya razvitiya konstruktsiy obuvi (History of the development of shoe designs). Moscow (in Russian).

Kaminskaya, N. M. 1977. Istoriia kostiuma v Rossii (The History of Costume in Russia). Moscow: “Legkaya industriya” Publ. (in Russian).

Kondratieva, O. A. 2011. Grebni IX–XIX vv. v bytu, obryadakh, fol'klore, remesle i khudozhestvennom tvorchestve Drevney Rusi – Rossii. Arkheologicheskie i etnograficheskie ocherki (Combs of the 9th – 19th cc. in Household Life, Ceremonies, Folklore, Crafts and Art of Ancient Rus - Russia. Essays on Archaeology and Ethnography). Saint Petersburg: Russian Museum of Ethnography Publ. (in Russian).

Korshunova, T. T. 1979. Kostyum v Rossii XVIII – nach. XX vv. iz sobraniya Gosudarstvennogo Ermitazha (Costume in Russia of the XVIII – early XX century from the collection of the State Hermitage). Leningrad: “Khudozhnik” Publ. (in Russian).

Kurbatov, A. V. 1995. In Rossiiskaia Arkheologiia (Russian Archaeology) (2), 198–208 (in Russian).

Lapshin, V. A., Gorodilov, A. Yu. 2013. In Solovieva, N. F. (ed.). Biulleten' Instituta istorii material'noi kul'tury RAN № 3 (Bulletin of the Institute for the History of Material Culture) 3. Saint Petersburg: Institute for the History of Material Culture, Russian Academy of Sciences; “Periferiia” Publ., 25–35 (in Russian).

Lapshin, V. A., Mikhailov, K. A., Garbuz, I. A., Novoselova, N. Yu., Furasev, A. G. 2013. In Solovieva, N. F. (ed.). Biulleten' Instituta istorii material'noi kul'tury RAN № 3 (Bulletin of the Institute for the History of Material Culture) 3. Saint Petersburg: Institute for the History of Material Culture, Russian Academy of Sciences; “Periferiia” Publ., 73–94 (in Russian).

Likhter, Yu. A. 2010. In Engovatova, A. V. (ed.). Arkheologiia Podmoskov’ia: Materialy nauchnogo seminara (Archaeology of the Moscow Region: Materials of the Seminar) 6. Moscow: Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 350–361 (in Russian).

L'vova, Z. A. 1968. In Arkheologicheskii sbornik Gosudarstvennogo Ermitazha (Archaeological Bulletin of the State Hermitage Museum) 10. Leningrad: “Sovetskii khudozhnik” Publ., 64–94 (in Russian).

Mikhailova, E. R. 2018. Otchet ob okhrannykh arkheologicheskikh raskopkakh vyyavlennogo ob"ekta kul'turnogo naslediya «Koltovskaya sloboda 1. Uchastok kul'turnogo sloya Koltovskoy slobody goroda Sankt-Peterburga XVIII – XX vv.» (Report on the security archaeological excavations on the identified cultural heritage site “Koltovskaya Sloboda 1. Cultural layer section of the Koltovskaya Sloboda in St. Petersburg of the XVIII – XX centuries.”). Saint Petersburg (in Russian).

Mikhailova, E. R. 2020. In Belyaev, L. A., Zakharov, V. N. (eds.). Zhizn' i smert' v Rossiyskoy imperii. Novye otkrytiya v oblasti arkheologii i istorii Rossii XVIII–XIX vv. (Life and Death in the Russian Empire. Recent discoveries in archaeology and history of the 18th–19th-centuries Russia). Moscow: “Indrik” Publ., 348–362 (in Russian).

Mikhailova, E. R., Murzenkov, D. N., Fedorova, I. A. 2017. Arkheologiya Koltovskikh. Po stranitsam polevogo otcheta 2017 g (Archaeology in Koltovskiye. According to the 2017 field report).Available at: URL: https://vk.com/@-437940-arheologiya-koltovskih-po-stranicam-polevogo-otcheta-2017-g (accessed: 14.02.2024) (in Russian).

Mustafaev, N. S. 2021. Vek 18-y: kostyum i obuv'. Iz kollektsii (XVIII century: costume and shoes. From the collection). Moscow: “Shoe Icons” Publ. (in Russian).

Novoselov. N. V. 2012. Nauchnyy otchet po teme «Okhrannye arkheologicheskie issledovaniya na territorii Letnego sada v 2010–2011 gg.» (Scientific report on the topic “Security archaeological research on the territory of the Summer Garden in 2010–2011”). Saint Petersburg (in Russian).

Osipov, D. O. 2006. Obuv' moskovskoy zemli XII–XVIII vv. (Footwear of the Moscow land of the XII–XVIII centuries). Series: Materialy okhrannykh arkheologicheskikh issledovaniy (Materials of security archaeological research) 7. Moscow: Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences (in Russian).

Politkovskaya, E. V. 2004. Kak odevalis' v Moskve i ee okrestnostyakh v XVI–XVIII vekakh (How people dressed in Moscow and its neighbourhood in the XVI–XVIII centuries) Moscow: “Flinta” Publ., “Nauka” Publ. (in Russian).

Polnoe sobranie zakonov Rossiiskoi imperii. Sobranie pervoe (Complete Collection of Laws of the Russian Empire. First Collection) IV. №1741. Saint Petersburg: Second Section of His Imperial Majesty's Own Chancery Publ. (in Russian).

Kokorina, N. A., Denisova, A. N., Knyazeva, N. A. (comp.). 2015. Pugovitsy XI–XVIII vekov iz arkheologicheskikh kollektsiy Gosudarstvennogo Vladimiro-Suzdal'skogo muzeya-zapovednika. Katalog (Buttons of the XI–XVIII centuries from the archaeological collections of the State Vladimir and Suzdal Museum-Reserve. Catalogue). Vladimir (in Russian).

Rabinovich, M. G. 1988. Ocherki material'noi kul'tury russkogo feodal'nogo goroda (Essays on the Material Culture of the Russian Feudal Town). Moscow: “Nauka” Publ., 176 (in Russian).

Sosnina, N. N. 2016. In Kalashnikova, N. M. (ed.). Moda i dizayn: istoricheskiy opyt – novye tekhnologii (Fashion and design: historical experience – new technologies). Saint Petersburg, 22–26 (in Russian).

Tataurova L. V. 2021. In Tataurova, L. V. (ed.). Kul’tura russkikh v arkheologicheskikh issledovaniiakh (Culture of the Russians in Archaeological Research) I. Omsk; Surgut: Institute of Archaeology of the North, 174–181 (in Russian).

Shungina, S. E. 2013. Otchet ob arkheologicheskikh issledovaniyakh v 2012 godu po adresu: g. Sankt-Peterburg, 8-ya liniya Vasil'evskogo ostrova, d.61, korp.2 (Report on archaeological research in 2012 at the address: St. Petersburg, 8th line of Vasilyevsky Island, 61, bldg. 2) vol. 1. Saint Petersburg (in Russian).

Shungina, S. E. 2017. In Lopatin, N. V. (ed.). Arkheologiia i istoriia Pskova i Pskovskoi zemli (Archaeology and History of Pskov and Pskov Land) 62. Moscow; Pskov: Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 406–421 (in Russian).

Yanishevsky, B. E., Yanishevsky, O. B. 2015. In Engovatova, A. V. (ed.). Arkheologiia Podmoskov’ia: Materialy nauchnogo seminara (Archaeology of the Moscow Region: Materials of the Seminar) 11. Moscow: Institute of Archaeology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 536–538 (in Russian).

Kidd, K. E., Kidd, M. A. 1970. In Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional Papers in Archaeology and History, 39–61.

Published

2024-02-29

How to Cite

Muratbakieva , A. D. (2024). Elements of Women’s Costume from Excavations in St. Petersburg. Arkheologiia Evraziiskikh Stepei (Archaeology of the Eurasian Steppes), (1), 116–126. https://doi.org/10.24852/2587-6112.2024.1.116.126

Issue

Section

Research and Publication