VOLGA BOLGARIA / EAST; ANCIENT RUSSIA / BYZANTINE EMPIRE (COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS OF JEWELRY COMPLEXES: COSTUME AND HEAD ADORNMENTS)

Abstract

The history of neighboring states - Volga Bolgaria and Ancient Rus - was synchronous, but proceeded in different cultural directions. The adoption of diff erent monotheistic religions stimulated striking cultural changes in the 10th – 11th centuries. In the 12th - fi rst third of 14th centuries both countries were characterized by the golden age of jewelry craft and clothing decoration. On the basis of the local framework, the population adopted new items from various sources, from the Byzantine Empire for Russia, and from the Arab Caliphate and Oriental countries for Volga Bolgaria. A Muslim costume was being developed in Volga Bolgaria, and a Christian costume - in Russia. The fi rst steps of jewelry craft were similar, involving the use of large-scale filigree. Subsequently, the craftsmen began to use miniature fi ligree, and a transition to openwork design of adornment design occurred, which was generally diff erent in Volga Bolgaria and Ancient Rus. A similar interest in oriental openwork jewelry is noted in both countries. The craftsmen of both countries developed a rational shape of a three-bead ring mainly worn in the headwear system. In Volga Bulgaria, the rings retained
pendants with beads, and a cylinder-oval shape of beads appeared, which was associated with the local and Islamic tradition. Spherical and oval-conical beads were widely spread in Rus. The local forms of noise-making pendants associated with pagan beliefs were highly demanded in both countries. Both the original forms and their jewelry implementations were different. The results of the golden age of jewelry were signifi cantly different both in terms of the shape of the jewelry and their manufacturing technology. Given the diff erences in specific forms, the very process of transition to a more developed jewelry craft and new jewelry complexes is similar.