VOLGA BOLGARIA / EAST; ANCIENT RUSSIA / BYZANTINE EMPIRE (COMPARATIVE CHARACTERISTICS OF JEWELRY COMPLEXES: NECK AND CHEST COMPLEXES, HAND ADORNMENTS)

Abstract

The neck and chest jewelry and hand adornments of Volga Bolgaria and Rus are characterized by similar early stages involving the use of large-scale filigree of the Finnish type (coin- and moon-shaped pendants, bracelets and signet rings). The jewelry breast chains of Volga Bolgaria retained the principle of using noisemaking necklaces with pendants included in the jewelry complex together with temple adornments. The shapes of necklaces are similar to those of Iranian origin. Suspended cases for texts from the Quran correspond to the jewelry culture of Islam. Other adornments include original torcs and openwork bracelets. The torcs and
bracelets of ancient Rus retained the techniques of dense twisting and weaving. The craftsmen of Volga Bolgaria created an original mixed jewelry complex involving the use of fi ligree (for head adornments, necklaces) and blackening (for cult items and hand jewelry), and the two techniques were combined. Several complexes were distinguished in Ancient Rus, which correspond to the following techniques: enameling, blackening and filigree. Each of them established its own versions of the main categories of adornments (necklaces consisting of medallions with Christian plots, blackened arm bracelets). The stylistic development of Bolgar and Rus ornamentation of blackened articles is similar. The contact of Rus and Volga Bulgar cultures did not result in significant changes in the complex of adornments and jewelry of these countries. The Rus element in the culture of the Volga Bolgars and the Bolgar element in Rus remained distinguishable. Each of the cultures created an original jewelry complex.